The Great White Bear Read online

  The Great White Bear

  A Natural and Unnatural History of the Polar Bear

  Kieran Mulvaney

  Table of Contents

  Title Page

  Table of Contents

  ...

  Copyright

  Dedications

  Contents

  Acknowledgments

  Journey

  Becoming

  Bear

  Ice

  Life

  Encounters

  Churchill

  Melt

  Future

  Notes

  Annotated Bibliography

  Index

  Footnotes

  Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

  Boston New York

  2011

  Copyright © 2011 by Kieran Mulvaney

  All rights reserved

  For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,

  write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company,

  215 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003.

  www.hmhbooks.com

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Mulvaney, Kieran.

  The great white bear : a natural and unnatural history

  of the polar bear / Kieran Mulvaney.

  p. cm.

  Includes bibliographical references.

  ISBN 978-0-547-15242-4

  1. Polar bear. I. Title.

  QL737.C27M85 2011

  599.786—dc22 2010017206

  Book design by Melissa Gruntkosky

  Printed in the United States of America

  DOC 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

  To my brothers:

  Michael Mulvaney

  and

  Stephen Mulvaney

  And to the memory of my parents:

  Peter Mulvaney

  (May 19, 1929–October 7, 2008)

  and

  Wendy Mulvaney

  (March 7, 1929–September 10, 2010)

  Contents

  Acknowledgments [>]

  Journey [>]

  Becoming [>]

  Bear [>]

  Ice [>]

  Life [>]

  Encounters [>]

  Churchill [>]

  Melt [>]

  Future [>]

  Notes [>]

  Annotated Bibliography [>]

  Index [>]

  Acknowledgments

  Although mine is the only name on the cover of this book, any undertaking such as this requires the help, encouragement, and support of a multitude of people.

  I would like first of all to thank my agent, John Thornton of the Spieler Agency, who quietly and patiently nurtured my proposal and steered it to a good home. I could not have asked him to find a better home than Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; Lisa White immediately showed enthusiasm for, and an understanding of, the project and has been a sensitive and collaborative editor. I very much hope we shall work together on many more titles in the future.

  I do not remember how I heard of Robert Buchanan, president of Polar Bears International, or what first moved me to contact him, but it is to my considerable benefit that I did. Robert is not only well connected and highly energetic; he is a genuinely kind and helpful man. It was because of him that I was able to spend time in Churchill, Manitoba, and it was through him that I encountered many of the researchers who have been so helpful in improving my understanding of polar bears. This book would not have been possible without him.

  One of Robert's first acts was to put me in contact with the good folks at Frontiers North Adventures; many thanks to John Gunter, Lynda Gunter, and Heather Ross for their assistance before, during, and after my time in Churchill. My time at the Tundra Buggy Lodge and on Tundra Buggies was greatly enhanced by the company, expertise, and professionalism of David Allcorn, Bree Golden, Chris Hendrickson, Trevor Lescard, and Julie Seaton. On Buggy One, I enjoyed and benefited from the companionship and knowledge of Robert Buchanan, B. J. Kirschhoffer, Leann Myers, and Krista Wright of Polar Bears International; Don Moore of the Smithsonian National Zoo; David Shepherdson of Oregon Zoo; JoAnne Simerson of San Diego Zoo; Thomas Smith of Brigham Young University; and Geoff York of the World Wildlife Fund.

  I was extremely fortunate that when searching for accommodations in Churchill, I came across a bed-and-breakfast called Duncan's Den; anyone who offers Bailey's to guests with their 6:00 a.m. coffee is all right by me, and I am pleased and honored to be able to call Lance and Irene Duncan my friends. My time with Lance and Irene was considerably enhanced by the concurrent stay of Paul Easthope and Helen Worth, for whom Churchill was one stop on a great around-the-world adventure. During the long train journey north from Winnipeg, I enjoyed enlightening and intelligent conversation with Doug Ross, and I am grateful also for those in Churchill who gladly gave of their time: Tony Bembridge and Jon Talon of Hudson Bay Helicopters; Shaun Bobier of Manitoba Conservation; Mike Spence, Churchill mayor; and Louella McPherson, Don Walkoski, and Marilyn Walkoski of Great White Bear Tours.

  My research was considerably aided by those who kindly gave of their time over the phone or in person, including Steve Amstrup of the United States Geological Survey, whose monograph on polar bears made my work a hundred times easier; Robert Buchanan; Richard Harington, Canadian Museum of Nature; Steve Herrero, University of Calgary; Brendan Kelly, University of Alaska; Eric Larsen; David Lavigne, International Fund for Animal Welfare; Don Moore; JoAnne Simerson; Len Smith; Tom Smith; and Geoff York. Brendan, David, Geoff, Tom, and Bruce McKay of SeaWeb all generously agreed to read portions of the draft manuscript. I am tremendously grateful to them for doing so, although I must underline that any remaining errors are mine alone.

  For providing photographs, many thanks to Robert and Carolyn Buchanan, Nick Cobbing, Brendan Kelly, and Jill Mangum.

  Portions of the Churchill chapter were first published in the Washington Post Magazine; thanks to David Rowell for helping me focus my thoughts and sharpen my writing. I am fortunate to be granted a platform to write about polar bears, climate change, the Arctic, and many other environmental issues for Discovery Channel News; my considerable gratitude to Lori Cuthbert, Larry O'Hanlon, and Michael Reilly at Discovery for their support.

  Much of my practical experience with the Arctic derives from the two expeditions involving the Greenpeace ship Arctic Sunrise that act as bookends to the text that follows. My participation in the first, in 1998, was as a freelance journalist, writing primarily for BBC Wildlife and New Scientist as well as Discovery News; my involvement was the brainchild of Kalee Kreider and Steve Sawyer, both then with Greenpeace and now respectively with the Office of the Honorable Al and Mrs. Tipper Gore and the Global Wind Energy Council. I am forever thankful to them for launching my life in that direction. During that first trip, I learned much about Arctic wildlife and science from the researchers on board, particularly George Divoky and Brendan Kelly of the University of Alaska; eleven years later, my connection with the Arctic Sunrise was as onshore coordinator for an expedition to the eastern Arctic, and although many researchers spent time on the ship during the three months or so that the voyage was under way, I personally came into closest contact with, and learned most from, Ruth Curry, Jim Ryder, and Fiamma Straneo of Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution; Gordon Hamilton of the University of Maine; and Leigh Stearns of the University of Kansas. Gratitude and greetings to those at Greenpeace who helped make either or both of those expeditions come together, particularly Willem Beekman, John Bowler, Melanie Duchin, Thomas Henningsen, Beth Herzfeld, Paula Huckleberry, Frank Kamp, Martin Lloyd, Sharon Mealy, Dan Ritzman, Sallie Schullinger-Krause, Adam Shore, Walt Simpson, Arne Sorensen, Dave Walsh, Pete Willcox, and the many others who w
orked tirelessly on board or ashore.

  As I have commented in acknowledgments in earlier books, authorship is a mostly solitary and oftentimes lonely process, made palatable by the support of friends across the country and around the world. I think particularly of Rachel Charles, Melanie Duchin, Mike Harold, D. J. and Catherine LaChapelle, Stephanie Lasure, Loni Laurent, Bruce McKay, Pilar Vergara, Sam Walton, Jim Weber (who, with Jason Colosky, Terry Hansen, and Scott Hansen, manages to get me out of the house and into a nice restaurant once every couple of months or so), and especially Kennedy Clark.

  I mean to imply no disrespect at all to those I have already mentioned—nor, I suspect, will any be inferred—when I say that, most of all, I cherish the love of my family, to whom this book is dedicated: my brothers, Michael and Stephen; my darling mother; and my late father.

  When I lived in Alaska, Dad particularly enjoyed chuckling at the notion that I would find a polar bear outside my door one day. I always assumed he was joking, but it was often not easy to tell with my father, whose eyes displayed a near-permanent twinkle of good-natured mischief. He would have loved seeing this endeavor come to fruition, and it was always my intention to dedicate it to him; but shortly after I started work on this project, he began his final journey. Much as I have enjoyed, and take pride in, this book, the memory of its creation will always be bittersweet and forever entwined with the images of those final few months, as I alternated between typing on my computer in my childhood bedroom and, with my brothers, sitting at my father's bedside.

  I love you and miss you, Dad. May you experience an eternity of fair winds and following seas. You have earned no less.

  Kieran Mulvaney

  Alexandria, Virginia

  Journey

  The bear was near the horizon when we first saw it.

  A dot in the water, barely visible above the waves, it was not, initially, obviously a bear at all.

  "Look at the size of that seal," exclaimed the mate, raising binoculars and prompting the captain to do likewise.

  There was a pause as the two men pondered the distant object, perhaps realized what they were looking at, dismissed the thought, returned to it, and finally conceded what was increasingly clear.

  That a polar bear should be in the vicinity should not, on the face of it, have been particularly remarkable. We were, after all, anchored just off the north coast of Alaska; however one defines the Arctic—and scientists, geographers, and oceanographers debate many conflicting and complementary delineations—we were undoubtedly in the heart of it and deep within the polar bear's realm.

  Yet the initial confusion was understandable. Polar bears are creatures of the ice; but, save a few floes drifting past in the current of the Beaufort Sea, there was almost none to be seen—just mile upon mile of open water.

  We had come in search of the edge of the Arctic Ocean sea ice. The boundary where open water progressively yields to its frozen counterpart is an oasis of marine life, one that our passengers, biologists from the University of Alaska, were keen to reach. But the ice edge had retreated to the north, earlier and farther than normal; it would take us many days of steaming to reach our goal. There was no way of knowing how long or how far this particular bear had been swimming, but its chances of ever finding its species' preferred habitat were all but nonexistent.

  It was a Sunday morning. The scent of freshly baked bread and of the breakfast that was cooking in the galley wafted from deck to deck and into the crisp arctic air. It filled our nostrils as we tumbled from mess room and cabins, hastily pulling on fleeces and coats, to watch as our visitor approached. The aromas stretched far beyond our green hull, wafting into the distance, their decreasing strength more than compensated for by the extra sensitivity to them on the part of the bear—which, it was increasingly clear, was not simply swimming in our direction but making a determined beeline for us.

  It paddled closer, close enough that now we could see it clearly, its paws working feverishly beneath the surface of the water, its long neck straining to keep its head above the surface, its eyes fixed eagerly on the steel grail ahead of it, its small ears flat against the side of its head. A passing ice floe provided welcome respite and the bear took advantage, clambering out of the ocean, its fur thick with water. It shook itself briefly, walked from one end of the floe to the other to stay level with the ship as the ice drifted past, then plunged back into the water and paddled closer to us once more. Another floe arrived, and again the bear climbed upon it, rested there until it began to drift out of range, reentered the water, and swam toward us again.

  Two or three times it repeated the process, each occasion appearing to be progressively more taxing as the bear fought to drag its waterlogged weight onto the ice, its shoulders seeming to sag ever so slightly with each repetition and the growing realization that any hope it might have had of clambering on board was destined not to be realized.

  Eventually, it gave up. Having hauled itself onto a passing floe for perhaps the third or fourth time, it chose not to subject itself anymore to the rigors of swimming in the Beaufort Sea on a hapless quest. Its mouth open, it tore away its gaze, looking alternately down at the ice beneath its feet and into the distance, anywhere, it seemed, except directly at the object of its desire and frustration. And we watched as it stood there, forlorn and defeated, drifting into the distance.

  For those of us assembled on deck, it had been a thrilling diversion. We had alternately gasped in awe and made the kind of cooing noises normally reserved for watching a puppy do tricks or a baby crawl along the floor. The bear was cute and furry and, from our vantage point on deck, perfectly harmless. Its apparent attempts to find a way on board had been endearing, precisely because they had failed.

  The bear did not, of course, share with us its motivation, but it seemed clear enough that what, for us, had been diverting and entertaining had been, for our visitor, entirely more serious and desperate. The extent of its determination and focus was underlined by the fact that it had been swimming into the current—a current that, a few days earlier, had demonstrated its strength by driving an enormous floe into us with such force that it had dragged our anchor from the sea floor and pushed our ship helplessly along the coast for over an hour until the captain extricated us. As we looked down on that bear, it focused keenly on the smell of food—the bacon, the bread, the strange bipedal seals waddling around on deck—that lay tantalizingly out of reach.

  I find it mildly astonishing in hindsight, but I had no comprehension at the time of just how unhealthy that bear clearly was. The fur on its nose was patchy and brown. By polar bear standards, it was painfully thin; as I look years later at footage we shot on that day, I can clearly see the bear shivering in the water, a function of having lost so much of its insulating body fat.

  But I had at the time no frame of reference. The only other polar bear I had ever seen was a captive in the local zoo I sometimes visited as a child. Confined in an enclosure that provided neither the space nor the stimulation required by an intelligent, inquisitive mammal hard-wired to wander for vast distances across the pack ice, it paced continuously back and forth—two steps forward, a sideways shake of the head, two steps back—minute after minute, hour after hour, day after day. For the bear that had swum up to us that morning in the Beaufort Sea, its torment was not psychological like that captive but physical: unable to reach its favored habitat, the great predator of the Arctic was forced to struggle for scraps of food and, judging by its condition, was faring poorly in its quest. It seems in retrospect highly unlikely that it lived for very much longer after it drifted away from us.

  Polarbjorn is both a Norwegian word for "polar bear" and, appropriately, the original name given to the target of that particular bear's attention: a green-hulled, 150-foot-long icebreaker now called the Arctic Sunrise. Built in Norway in 1975, the ship's initial raison d'être, like that of its mammalian namesake, was to hunt seals: an ironic start to life for a vessel that was now used as a platform to document
environmental damage and highlight the impacts of climate change. That change of vocation had taken effect in 1995; two years later, the Sunrise became the first ship to circumnavigate James Ross Island in the Antarctic Peninsula—a feat that had been impossible until warming temperatures led to the disintegration of part of the Larsen Ice Shelf, which had previously anchored the island to the Antarctic mainland. Shortly afterward, it traveled to the other end of the world, grinding through Arctic ice in the Beaufort Sea, which is where, one year later, we were gazing down on our unexpected visitor.

  There was, however, one slight problem.

  We were on an icebreaker, but there was very little ice. And as the ice eluded us, so too did the ice denizens we had come to see.

  The only evidence that polar bears were anywhere in the neighborhood came from a stopover at Deadhorse, the supply post for the oil fields at Prudhoe Bay. On the inside of the door to the town's general store, a sign warned visitors to exit carefully. "There are bears outside," it warned. "Look before leaving. Bears are soooo cute, but their claws and teeth are sharp and they like to maul people." On the outside of the door, there was a freshly pinned notice, advising that a polar bear had been seen around town that very morning and that extra attentiveness was therefore warranted.

  Two days later came the unexpected visit from our swimming, skinny bear; but after it had drifted forlornly into the distance, we saw no further sign of ice-loving ursids—or, indeed, much sign of ice at all—in the immediate area.

  We steamed west and north, away from the Alaska coast and toward the Russian Arctic, in search of an ice edge. Within a week, we had found it, and when we did so, it came upon us neither gradually nor incrementally but with a suddenness and emphasis that threatened to grind us to a halt.

  The Arctic Sunrise, while an icebreaker, was a relatively small one; it possessed nothing like the heft of, for example, the nuclear-powered Russian behemoths that plow their way to the North Pole each year for the benefit of paying tourists. Like all icebreakers, however, its hull was rounded and without a keel; that made the Sunrise an uncomfortable ride on the open ocean, as it bobbed around more like a cork than a seagoing vessel, but it enabled it to rise onto ice floes with relative ease, a characteristic of which Captain Arne Sorensen took ready advantage.